TXC93 




HoHinger 
pH 85 
Mill Run F03-2193 



COOKING and SERVING 

EN CASSEROLE 

AND THINGS WE RELISH 



By 

janet Mckenzie hill 

Editor Boston Cooking School J\Iagazi7ie 



The Meriden Silver Plate Company 

International Silver Company, Successor 
Meriden, Connecticut 

Book No. 95 



Copyright, 1910, 
International Silver Company, Meriden, Conn. 



€C!.A265394 



CASSEROLE and RAMEQUIN 
COOKERY 

That pottery has a distinctive and 
lasting charm no one denies. The 
fascination for earthen pots, pans, 
shirrers, au gratin dishes, rame quins, 
and casseroles lies partly in the ro- 
mance that clusters around every- 
thing connected with the dim past 
we call the childhood of the world. 
For pottery is in direct line of the 
evolutionary process from the natural 
vessels of gourds, bark or shell, used 
by prehistoric man ; wet clay was 
first spread upon or within these 
natural vessels for baking, because it 
seemed necessary to do so, and, after- 
ward, to secure certain lines consid- 
ered ornamental. But cooking in 
casseroles and ramequins would not 
have had such a modern renaissance, 
if quaint or artistic shapes and a ro- 
mantic history were all that com- 
mended them to our favor. 

The modern housekeeper has be- 
gun to learn that there are other 
ways of cooking food than by boil- 
ing, broiling, or roasting, all of which 
processes call for high heat. She has 
come to know that long, slow cook- 
ing, at a gentle heat, best conserves 
the nutritive elements of food and 
the flavors that render it most agree- 



3 




PLATE I 



4 



able to lis. It is this method of cook- 
ing that the earthen casserole, with 
its close-fitting cover, has made pos- 
sible for us. Then, too, the casserole 
is the serving as well as the cooking 
dish ; and besides, as from its nature 
it retains heat for a long time, the 
food presented in it may be kept in 
good condition for the late comer or 
tardy diner. The casserole may be, 
also, the main dependence of the 
woman who does her own work and 
likes to serve her meals daintily in 
courses. The viands cooked in the 



PLATE I 

Illustrating complete Casserole, together with the 
various parts, silver-plated holder and service 
cover and pottery lining and cover. 



casserole, whether of ''fish, flesh, 
fowl, or good red herring, ' ' nicely sea- 
soned and ready to serve, will not 
deteriorate, if they be left in the oven 
while the appetizer and soup are 
being eaten ; they may then be 
brought to the table without further 
manipulation or a minute's delay. 

In cooking chicken, veal, and the 
like en casserole, after the vegetables, 
mushrooms, and wine have been 
added, press a strip of dough over 
the meeting line of cover and dish ; 
this will swell in the heat and her- 
metically seal the casserole. When 
the dish is taken from the oven for 
serving, scrape from it the dough, 



but do not open the casserole until it 
has been set upon the table, unless it 
is desired to substitute for the pottery 
the silver-plated service cover. When 
the latter is not used, the pottery 
cover is removed with a napkin by the 
waitress, after placing the casserole 
upon the table. Any kind of dough 
at hand may be used to seal a casse- 
role, but if it be necessary to prepare 
it expressly for this purpose, stir into a 
generous cup of flour as much water 
as is needed to form a stiff dough, 
then knead and roll it under the 
hands into a strip and use as indi- 
cated above. 

On every-day occasions ramequins 
are the mainstay of the woman whose 
family have the egg-eating habit and 
do not want them cooked always in 
"the same old way," i.e., in the 
shell. In ramequins and shirred-egg 
dishes, eggs may be cooked by a new 
recipe every day in the year, and 
new recipes will still be on hand for 
the next year's menus. In egg-cook- 
ery, ramequins and shirrers are the 
serving as well as the cooking dishes, 
and by use of them the modern idea 
of economy in work is well illustrated. 

The housekeeper who is desirous 
of setting a pleasing table without 
an undue expenditure of time or 
money, will find ramequins and co- 
cottes quite indispensable additions 
to her table service. With these at 



6 



hand, left-over bits of vegetables, 
fish, fowl, veal, or other delicate 
meats can be transformed quickly 
into creamed or deviled dishes, dishes 
Bechamel, or souffle. Any one of 
these preparations, sent to the table 
in a handsome ramequin or cocotte 
as an entree at dinner or a hot tidbit 
at supper or luncheon, changes the 
nature of an ordinary, commonplace 
meal, and gives it an air of elegance 
and distinction. 

But at meals of ceremony it is that 
ramequins most appeal to us, for they 
are appropriate for either savory or 
sweet dishes ; in them may be served 
cocktails, salads, entrees, or desserts ; 
they are alike convenient for dishes 
cooked au gratin or Newburg, 
creamed or scalloped. The little 
covered dishes when uncovered may 
disclose a bird, a rolled fillet of fish, 
stuffed mushrooms, creamed sweet- 
breads, or many another tidbit that 
has been cooked in a larger vessel, 
to insure proper moisture with the 
minimum of labor, and then trans- 
ferred to the individual dish made 
hot to receive it. 

Linen or lace-paper doilies should 
be laid over the plates on which the 
ramequin is to rest. 

Ramequins without covers are de- 
signed for dishes served au gratin, 
scalloped or in the form of souffles, 
in all of which a crusty exterior is 



7 



desired. It is perhaps needless to 
say that souffles, from their very 
nature, cannot be transferred from 
one dish to another, but must be 
served the instant they are cooked 
and from the dish in which they are 
cooked. "While cooking let them 
stand on many folds of paper and 
surrounded by hot, but not boiling, 
water. When done set at once in 
place in the small silver cases made 
to receive them and hasten them to 
the table. Scalloped dishes also are 
cooked in the open ramequins. 

PLATE II 

5053 Shirred Egg Dish, round, porcelaine a feu 

lining, diameter, 8% inches. 
5052 Bean Pot, porcelaine a feu lining, capacity, 

3 pints. 

5048% Casserole, round, porcelaine a feu lining 

and cover, and silver-plated service cover, 

capacity, 4 pints. 
5051 Casserole, oval, porcelaine a feu lining and 

cover, capacity, 5 pints. 
2285% Vegetable Dish, round, porcelaine a feu 

lining and cover, and silver-plated service 

cover, diameter, 8 inches. 

Casserole and ramequin cookery, 
properly conducted, is a slow process, 
for it is carried on at a comparatively 
low temperature. For an operation 
that requires a high degree of heat, 
some other utensil is indicated; 
thus, when a sauce for a creamed 
dish is desired, the sauce should be 
made in a dish of some other ware ; 
the article to be served should be 
made hot in this sauce and then 
transferred, sauce and all, to the 



casserole or ramequins. So when 
articles, as fowl, birds, sweetbreads, 
mushrooms, etc., are to be browned 
in butter or oil, before the liquid in 
which they are to be finally cooked is 
added to them, let the preliminary 
cooking be carried on in the frying 
pan. Then, when the articles are 
transferred to the casserole, carefully 
rinse the pan, to secure all the 
browned juices for the earthen dish. 
Hold ever in mind this fact, that 
casserole cooking should not pass 
beyond a gentle simmer, and time 
must be allowed for the process. 

Petites marmites (individual soup 
pots), bouillon cups, and cream- 
soup cups are receptacles for cooked 
soup. 

Care of Pottery Ware 

The interior surface of casseroles 
and ramequins is highly polished ; 
thus odor and flavor are not retained 
and the dishes are cleansed with 
ease. Avoid changing the tem- 
perature, from hot to cold or cold to 
hot, too abruptly, lest the ware be 
crackled. 

Bouillon 

Cut in very small pieces, or chop 
fine, three pounds of raw beef from 
the vein or under part of the round. 
Let stand covered with two quarts 
of cold water, until the meat looks 



10 



whitish and the water is well colored, 
then gradually heat the contents of 
the kettle to the boiling point. Let 
boil five minutes, then skim carefully 
and let simmer gently five hours. 
Add a small onion with three cloves 
pressed into it, half a carrot cut in 
slices, two or three sprigs of parsley, 
and two stalks of celery and let 
simmer another hour. Strain off the 
broth and set it aside in a cool place. 
When cold remove the fat and 
measure the broth. There should be 
three pints of liquid ; if there be less, 
add water to secure this quantity ; 
add one teaspoonful and a half of 
salt, the whites of two eggs beaten 
slightly and mixed with the crushed 
shells, and a little pepper if desired. 
Stir the mixture constantly while 
slowly heating it to the boiling 
point ; let boil three minutes, then 
simmer fifteen minutes ; now add 
half a cup of cold water and let 
stand to settle; remove the scum 
from the top with a skimmer and 
strain the soup through a napkin 
wrung out of hot water, and laid 
over a strainer, and reheat before 
serving in bouillon cups. Bouillon 
is sometimes served without clearing. 
Simply remove the fat, add the salt 
and reheat. If a richer, darker-col- 
ored bouillon be desired, brown a por- 
tion of the meat over the fire in hot 
fat before it is set to cook in the water. 



11 




PLATE III 



Cream=of=CeIery Soup 

Cut fine the outer stalks of celery 
to make a generous pint ; let cook in 
boiling water until tender, then press 
through a fine sieve ; there should be 
one pint of liquid and pulp. Scald 
three cups of milk with two slices of 
onion. Melt one-fourth a cup of 
butter, and in it cook one-fourth 
a cup of flour and a teaspoonful of 
salt, also pepper if desired ; add the 
celery puree ; cook and stir until the 
boiling point is reached, strain in 



PLATE III 

5047% Bean Pot, pottery lining and cover, and sil- 
ver-plated service cover, capacity, 3 pints. 

5042% Casserole, oval, pottery lining and cover, 
and silver-plated service cover, capacity, 
5 pints. 

5039% Casserole, pottery lining and cover, and sil- 
ver-plated service cover, capacity, 5 pints. 

5001 Casserole, oval, pottery lining and cover, 
capacity, 5 pints. 



the scalded milk and serve at once in 
cream-soup cups. Serve at the same 
time crisped crackers or pulled bread 
on a separate dish. 

Onion Soup in Petites Marmites 

Melt half a cup of butter; in it 
cook four large white onions, sliced 
fine; stir and cook the onions until 
they are softened and yellowed, then 
add three or four sprigs of parsley, 
two quarts of rich beef broth and a 
pint of water and let simmer twenty 



13 



minutes. Have ready eight petites 
marmites ; into each of these put 
three round slices of French bread 
freed from crust, browned in the oven, 
or toasted, and then sprinkled with 
grated Parmesan cheese. Strain the 
soup over the toast, which will rise 
to the top of the marmites ; again 
sprinkle the toast with grated cheese 
and set the marmites into the oven, 
to melt the cheese and brown it 
slightly. The soup is now ready to 
send to the table in the little vessels. 
If preferred, pick out the parsley and 
leave the onion in the soup. 

Pot=au=Fue to Serve in Petites 
Marmites 

(Soup to Serve in Individual Soup Pots) 

For two quarts of this soup pur- 
chase four pounds of beef from the 
vein or round, a fowl weighing about 
three pounds, and about eight inches 
of marrow bone (beef) sawed into 
inch lengths. Put the beef over the 
fire to cook in three quarts of cold 
water, and heat water quickly to the 
boiling point ; let boil three minutes, 
then skim and remove to a cooler 
part of the range and keep at the 
simmering point. Clean, truss, and 
roast the fowl fifteen minutes, then 
when well browned, put it into the 
soup kettle, adding also the giblets 
carefully cleaned ; take out the 



u 



chicken and beef as soon as they are 
tender. Remove and keep hot a 
part of the breast of the chicken and 
a part of the beef, to serve in the 
pots, and set the rest aside for other 
use. To the soup add an onion, into 
which two cloves have been pressed, 
two small carrots, one turnip, and 
three stalks of celery ; remove these 
as soon as tender and keep them hot. 
Remove the fat from the broth and 
strain the broth through a cheese- 
cloth ; add two teaspoonfuls of salt 
and reheat it. Into each petite mar- 
mite, put two pieces, each, of vege- 
tables, chicken, and beef and pour 
over the broth ; put the covers in 
place and set the marmites on plates 
covered with folded napkins. Serve 
with this soup some slices of bread, 
browned in the oven or toasted and 
spread with the beef marrow, poached 
six minutes in water at boiling point. 

Chicken en Casserole 

Separate the chicken into pieces 
at the joints and wipe each with a 
wet cloth ; saute in butter melted in 
a frying pan, first on one side and 
then on the other, until delicately 
browned, then transfer the pieces to 
the casserole ; add about a pint of 
hot white broth (made from veal or 
chicken) or boiling water, put on the 
cover and let cook in a moderately 
heated oven about one hour and a 



15 




PLATE IV 



16 



quarter. Melt two or three table- 
spoor fuls of butter in the frying pan 
and in it saute six or eight peeled 
mushroom caps, a dozen slices or 
balls (cut with French cutter) of 
carrot, two dozen potato balls, and 
six peeled onions, the size of the 
potato balls. As soon as these are 
browned, remove them to the casse- 
role, add more broth if needed, four 
tablespoonfuls of sherry wine, and 
salt to season ; set the cover in place, 
seal the dish with paste and return 



PLATE IV 

5033% Bean Pot, pottery lining and cover, and sil- 
ver-plated service cover, capacity, 1% pints. 

5031% Casserole, oval, pottery lining and cover, 
and silver-plated service cover, capacity, 
5 pints. 

5028% Casserole, pottery lining and cover, and 
silver-plated service cover, capacity, 5 pints. 

5007 Casserole, oval, pottery lining and cover, 
and silver-plated service cover, capacity, 
7 pints. 



to the oven for another half hour or 
until the vegetables are tender, when 
the chicken should be cooked. 

Sweetbreads en Casserole 

Let two pair of sweetbreads stand 
an hour or longer in cold water, 
changing the water several times and 
removing unedible portions ; drain, 
cover with boiling water, and let 
simmer ten minutes, to stiffen them 
on the outside ; let chill in cold 
water, then draw into the best side 



17 



of each about a dozen lardoons of fat 
salt pork. Melt four tablespoonfuls 
of butter in a frying pan and in this 
brown the sweetbreads, first on one 
side and then on the other, taking 
care to brown the larded side but 
little. Set the sweetbreads in the 
casserole; add veal broth, highly 
seasoned with vegetables and sweet 
herbs (or add half a cup of celery, 
onion, and carrot in bits, tied in a 
muslin for removal), to half cover 
the sweetbreads ; cover and let sim- 
mer in the oven nearly an hour. 
Saute six or eight mushroom caps in 
butter and add these to the casserole ; 
let cook fifteen minutes, when the 
broth should be well reduced ; add 
half a cup of thick cream, salt and 
paprika to season and a pint of hot 
cooked peas, letting the peas settle 
to the bottom of the dish and draw- 
ing the sweetbreads and mushrooms 
above them. This dish may be 
served, after cooking, in individual 
ramequins, those of oval shape being 
well adapted to this service. The 
peas should be below and around 
the sweetbreads and the mushroom 
caps above. The mushrooms may be 
omitted. 

Veal Collops en Casserole 

Have veal from the leg cut in slices 
about three-fourths an inch in 
thickness ; cut these in pieces for 



18 



serving and into each draw one or 
two fine bits of salt pork or lardoons. 
In a frying pan have four or five 
tablespoonfuls of hot pork fat or 
butter, and in this cook about two 
pounds of the veal until nicely 
browned ; remove the browned veal 
to the casserole and add an onion, 
into which four cloves have been 
pressed, two sprigs of parsley, and 
stock or boiling water nearly to cover 
the veal ; saute a green pepper, chop- 
ped fine, in a tablespoonful of butter, 
and add this with two or three peeled 
tomatoes cut in pieces, also salt to 
season ; cover the dish, and let cook 
in a moderate oven about an hour 
and a half. Mushrooms, with caps 
whole or broken in pieces, may be 
used in this dish, and when desired 
the liquid may be thickened with 
flour mixed with cold water to a thin 
paste. Remove the onion and pars- 
ley before serving. 

Potatoes en Casserole 

Melt one-fourth a cup of butter 
(the clear fat from bacon or salt 
pork, or the fat taken from the top 
of a kettle of soup are all well adapted 
to this use) in a frying pan. Have 
ready nearly a quart of balls cut from 
pared potatoes with a French cutter, 
washed in cold water, and dried in a 
cloth. Turn the balls into the hot 
fat, and add ateaspoonful of salt and 



19 




20 



a "grating (about a teaspoonful) of 
onion. Shake the frying pan over 
a brisk fire, to brown the potatoes ; 
then add brown stock or boiling 
water nearly to cover the potato, and 
heat the whole to the boiling point. 
Add a tablespoonful of chopped pars- 
ley and turn into a casserole, cover 
close, and let cook in a moderate 
oven about forty minutes. Serve 
from the dish. Balls cut from turnips, 
carrots, and Jerusalem artichokes, as 
also pieces of celery, an inch and a 
half in length, may be cooked in the 



PLATE V 

5C20 Casserole, oval, pottery lining and cover, 
capacity, 5 pints. 

5016 Casserole, pottery lining and cover, capac- 
ity, 6 pints. 

5011 Casserole, pottery lining and cover, capac- 
ity, 5 pints. 

5002% Casserole, pottery lining and cover, and 
silver-plated service cover, capacity, 2% 
pints. 



same way. When the cooking is fin- 
ished there should not be a superflu- 
ity of liquid in the dish — just enough 
to serve a scant tablespoonful with 
each service of vegetable. 

Sweet Potatoes, en Casserole 

Pare about eight sweet potatoes of 
the same size ; cut these in halves 
lengthwise, cover with boiling, salted 
water, and let boil five or six minutes; 
then drain carefully. Melt one-fourth 

I 



21 



a cup of butter in a casserole, put in 
a layer of potatoes, and sprinkle them 
thick with maple or brown sugar ; 
put in another layer of potatoes, dot 
them with bits of butter, and sprinkle 
with sugar and a little salt ; cover 
the dish and set to cook in a moder- 
ate oven. After twenty minutes re- 
move the cover and add, if the pota- 
toes seem dry, a little butter and 
sugar melted in hot water, and let 
cook about ten minutes longer. When 
done the potatoes should be moist 
with syrup, and there should be a 
little syrup in the dish. 

Bananas with Sauce en Casserole 

Peel five or six bananas ; scrape 
off the coarse threads, and cut the 
bananas in halves, lengthwise, and 
the pieces in halves, crosswise. Put 
these into a casserole. Melt a small 
glass of currant jelly in a cup of boil- 
ing water and pour over the bananas ; 
then squeeze over them the juice of 
half a lemon ; cover the dish, and let 
cook in a moderate oven about half 
an hour. Serve from the casserole 
as a sweet entree with roast beef or 
mutton, or with beefsteak. 

Beefsteak en Casserole 

Use two pounds of round steak, cut 
from one inch to one inch and a half 
thick. The steak may be left whole 



22 



or cut into pieces each two inches 
square. Heat an iron frying pan, rub 
over the surface with a bit of fat from 
the meat, put in the steak, and cook, 
first on one side and then on the 
other, to harden the meat on the out- 
side and thus keep in the juices ; put 
the meat into the casserole; put in 
also a dozen and a half pieces, each, 
of carrot and turnip. The vegetables 
may be cut in similar-shaped slices, 
cubes, or triangles, or they may be 
cut into balls with a French cutter ; 
add also about a dozen very small 
onions, nicely peeled, a tablespoon- 
ful of kitchen bouquet, and a gener- 
ous pint of brown stock or boiling 
water. Cover, and let cook very 
gently in the oven about an hour and 
a half. After cooking an hour, add 
salt and more broth if needed. Serve 
from the casserole. The vegetables 
may be browned in one-fourth a 
cup of dripping before being put into 
the casserole. For this style of cook- 
ing, round steak gives a richer dish 
than does a sirloin steak, and should 
be selected, when the cooking is to 
be done in the casserole. 

Beefsteak en Casserole, 
Rathskeller Style 

Select a sirloin or tenderloin steak 
at least an inch thick. Have ready 
cooked in brown stock until tender, 



23 




PLATE VI 



24 



balls cut from carrots and turnips, 
half a dozen of each for each service ; 
also for each service two small onions. 
For a steak weighing about two 
pounds, melt and brown three table- 
spoonfuls of butter; in it stir and 
cook five tablespoonfuls of flour until 
the flour is well browned, then add 
half a teaspoonful of salt and one 
cup and a half of rich, dark-brown 
broth ; stir the sauce constantly until 
it boils, then add the cooked vege- 
tables and about a dozen canned 



PLATE VI 

5022 Shirred Egg Dish , oval, pottery lining, length, 
9 l A inches. 

5023 Gratin Dish, oval, pottery lining, length, 8% 
inches. 

5008 Petite Marmite, pottery lining, with cover, 

capacity, 2 pints. 
5025 Pie Plate, round, pottery lining, diameter, 

9% inches. 

5012 Shirred Egg Dish, round, pottery lining, 
diameter, W/z inches. 



mushrooms and let the whole stand 
over hot water while the steak is be- 
ing cooked ; also let a low, uncovered 
casserole become thoroughly heated. 
Rub over the surface of a hot iron 
frying pan with a bit of suet, then 
lay in the steak, turn it every ten 
seconds, at first, keeping the pan very 
hot, then let cook more slowly, turn- 
ing less frequently for about six min- 



25 



utes in all. Set the steak in the hot 
casserole, turn the vegetables and 
sauce over it and set the dish into a 
hot oven to stand about four minutes ; 
sprinkle the steak with a teaspoonful 
or more of fine-chopped parsley, and 
serve at once. The casserole being 
low, the steak is easily carved in the 
dish. 

Hungarian Goulasch 

Slice a peeled onion and cook it 
until brown in three tablespoonfuls 
of fat tried out of salt pork ; take out 
the onion and turn in a pound and a 
half of lean, uncooked veal cut in 
inch cubes ; stir, and cook the meat 
until slightly browned, then, reject- 
ing the fat, if there be any in the 
pan, dispose the meat in a casserole ; 
add about a pint of broth or boiling 
water and a teaspoonful of paprika, 
cover the dish and set to cook in the 
oven. In the meantime add more 
fat to the frying pan, and when hot, 
brown in it about a dozen balls cut 
from pared potatoes, and a dozen 
small onions ; when the onions are 
well browned, add them to the cas- 
serole, and after the meat has been 
cooking an hour, add a teaspoonful 
of salt and the potatoes, and, if de- 
sired, two tablespoonfuls of flour 
mixed to a thin paste with cold 
water. Let cook in all about two 
hours. Serve from the casserole. 



26 



Pigeons en Casserole 

Select young pigeons ; clean and 
wash carefully and draw into the 
breasts some lardoons or strips of salt 
pork or bacon, or tie a slice of bacon 
around each pigeon. Put two or 
three tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
casserole ; add a Spanish onion, cut 
in slices, and on these set the pigeons ; 
cover and let cook fifteen minutes on 
the back of the range ; add three cups 
of beef or veal broth and let cook in 
the oven until the pigeons are tender. 
It will take from one to four hours 
according to age of birds. Add hot 
broth as is needed to keep the 
pigeons half covered. When the 
pigeons are nearly tender, cook a 
small cauliflower, separate it into 
flowerets and add to the pigeons in the 
casserole with pepper and salt; two 
tablespoonfuls of flour mixed smooth 
with water may be stirred into the 
liquid before the cauliflower is added. 

Neck of Lamb en Casserole 

Put about two pounds and a half 
of lamb from the breast, cut in pieces 
for serving, into a casserole. Season 
with salt and pepper, dredge with 
flour, and sprinkle a few bits of but- 
ter on top. Put around the meat a 
peeled and sliced onion, a pepper pod 
cut in strips, and a cup of sliced to- 
matoes (fresh or canned) ; add water 



27 



PLATE VII 



to half cover the meat, cover and let 
cook two hours ; add half a cup of 
blanched rice and more water if 
needed and let cook another hour. 
Serve from the casserole. 

Eggs Shirred in Ratnequins 

For each ramequin take about three 
tablespoonfuls of fine bread crumbs 
from the center of a slice or loaf and 
an equal quantity of fine-chopped 
cooked chicken or ham. Add a few 



PLATE VII 

5035 Casserole Chafing Dish, pottery lining and 
cover, and silver-plated service cover, "Mis- 
sion " style, oak base, silver-plated mount- 
ings, with Perfection Lamp, capacities, 3J£, 
5, and 6 pints. 

5036 Casserole Chafing Dish, pottery lining and 
cover, and silver-plated service cover, on a 
Denatured Alcohol Gas Stove, "Mission" 
style, oak base, silver-plated mountings, 
capacities, 3%, 5, and 6 pints. This stove has 
all the advantages of the gas range. Burns 
the new fuel, Denatured Alcohol, and has the 
added convenience of portability. 

grains of salt and cream or broth to 
make a thin batter. Butter a rame- 
quin, put in a little of the batter, 
break in an egg, and cover it with 
the rest of the batter. Let cook in a 
moderate oven until the egg is set. 
Serve in the ramequins. For a change 
prepare about half the quantity of 
" batter," put this in the ramequins, 
break in the eggs, then cook until 
set. Take from the oven, and finish 
by disposing a tablespoonful of hot 
white or tomato sauce above the egg. 



29 



This, though it costs a little more 
work, is preferable. 

Beef en Casserole 

Have a pound and a half or two 
pounds of inexpensive beef cut in 
pieces for serving. A piece from the 
neck, the lower part of the round, or 
the shank may be used. Put these 
into the casserole, add boiling water 
nearly to top of the meat, cover, and let 
cook in a moderate oven about three 
hours. Pare four or five potatoes, 
and cut each into eight lengthwise 
pieces ; cover with cold water and let 
heat quickly to the boiling point, then 
drain, rinse in cold water, and drain 
again. To the meat in the casserole 
add the potatoes, a teaspoonful of 
salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper. 
Let cook half an hour or longer, if the 
meat be not tender. A tablespoonful 
of dried mushrooms, soaked in cold 
water an hour or more, or two young 
carrots, scraped and cut in quarters, 
may be added with the potatoes. 

Hamburg Balls en Casserole 

Chop fine two pounds of round 
steak, half an onion, three sprigs of 
parsley, and two slices of fat bacon. 
Add a beaten egg, a teaspoonful of 
salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper 
(a piece of red or green pepper pod 
may be chopped with the meat) ; mix 
thoroughly, then roll into a dozen or 
more balls. Put the balls in the cas- 



30 



serole. Strain a can of tomatoes (to 
exclude seeds) , add a cup of boiling 
water, a teaspoonful of salt, and half 
a teaspoonful of pepper and heat to 
the boiling point ; add to the cas- 
serole, cover and let cook about an 
hour. In the meantime cook a scant 
cup of macaroni (pieces an inch long) 
in rapid-boiling, salted water; drain, 
rinse in cold water, and turn into the 
casserole. Lift the balls to the top 
of the dish and return to the oven. 
Serve when hot. If desired, half a 
cup or more of grated cheese may be 
mixed through the macaroni in the 
dish. One-fourth a cup of dried 
mushrooms, soaked in cold water, 
may be added with the balls when 
set to cook. 

Beef en Casserole, French 
Fashion 

Cut one pound and a half of round 
steak in pieces for serving; roll in 
flour and let cook in bacon or salt pork 
fat in a frying-pan until brown on 
one side, then turn and brown the 
other side ; remove the meat to a 
casserole, add more fat if needed, and 
in it brown eight small onions ; add 
these to the casserole with a tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
pepper, and boiling water to nearly 
cover the meat. Cover and let cook 
about two hours. Have ready about 



31 



5030 




a cup of cooked beans (green beans 
in season or dried Lima beans in win- 
ter) , draw the meat to the center of 
the casserole, season the beans with 
salt, pepper and butter, and turn them 
into the liquid around the meat. 



Lamb Chops en Casserole 

Select chops from the neck, such 
as would not be tender when broiled. 
Roll the chops in flour on both sides, 
cook in hot fat in a frying-pan until 
browned on both sides, then remove 
to the casserole ; cover with boiling 



PLATE VIII 

5030 6 Bouillon Cups, with china linings, in case, 
satin lined. 

5033 6 Bouillon Cups, with Lenox china linings, in 
case, satin lined. 



water, light stock, or tomato puree ; 
add three or four young carrots, 
scraped and cut in quarters, and let 
cook about two hours. When about 
ready to serve add a teaspoonful of 
salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and 
nearly a pint of cooked peas, well sea- 
soned. Cover and serve very hot. 
Three or four small French turnips, 
pared and cut in quarters, may be 
added with the carrots. 

P 

33 



Lamb's or Calf's Liver 
en Casserole 

Cut the liver in short slices nearly 
an inch thick, roll in flour, then brown, 
first on one side and then on the 
other, in hot bacon fat. Put the liver 
into a casserole and add one or two 
tablespoonfuls of butter to the frying 
pan ; add one-fourth a cup of flour 
and cook until browned ; pour on a 
pint of tomato puree, broth or water, 
and half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
stir until boiling, then pour into the 
casserole ; add five or six new car- 
rots, scraped and cut in quarters, 
cover and let cook in the oven an 
hour ; add six small onions, parboiled 
and drained , and two or three branches 
of parsley, and let cook another hour. 
Skim off all fat, add more thickening 
(flour and w r ater) and seasoning if 
needed. Let simmer ten minutes 
and serve in the casserole. Mush- 
rooms are an improvement. Water 
or broth should be added if needed 
during the cooking. 

Fresh Haddock or Cod 
en Casserole 

Select a fish weighing about three 
pounds. Have the head removed at 
the market, but sent home with the 



34 



fish. Pull the skin from the fish, 
remove the flesh from the backbone, 
and cut it into suitable pieces for 
serving. Cover the head, the back- 
bone, broken in pieces, and the skin 
with cold water ; add three or four 
slices of carrots, half an onion, and 
let simmer an hour, then strain off 
the liquid. Put the fish in the cas- 
serole, cover with the fish broth, add 
half a dozen small parboiled onions 
and three or four small potatoes, 
pared and cut in quarters and par- 
boiled. Add also a teaspoonful of 
salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper. 
Cover and let cook about half an 
hour. Add two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, and salt and pepper as needed. 
Serve from the casserole. The onions 
must have been cooked at least an 
hour before being added to the 
casserole. 



Cauliflower with Cheese 
au Gratia 

Have ready a cauliflower cooked in 
boiling, salted water until tender. 
Separate the cauliflower into flower- 
ets, and dispose these, stem down- 
ward, in ramequins. For a medium 
sized cauliflower, melt three table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and cook in it 
three tablespoonfuls of flour, half 



35 



a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of 
paprika ; then add a cup and a half 
of milk, and stir until the sauce boils, 
then stir in a cup of grated cheese 
and pour a little of the sauce over 
the cauliflower in each ramequin. 
Stir a cup of fine cracker crumbs into 
one-third a cup of melted butter; 
sprinkle these over the cauliflower 
and sauce, and set the ramequins 
into the oven to brown the crumbs. 
Serve in the ramequins as a vege- 
table entree. 



PLATE IX 

1143 Celery Dish, cut-glass lining, length, 11 
inches. 

4392 Bowl, cut-glass lining, diameter, 7% inches. 

4969 Relish Dish, cut-glass lining, 5 compart- 
ments, diameter, 9 inches. 

4956 Relish Dish, cut-glass lining, length, 11 
inches. 



Ham en Casserole 

Put into a casserole a slice of ham 
an inch or more thick, or use ham, 
cut very thin, to make a depth of two 
inches. Pour in boiling water nearly 
to cover the ham, cover the casserole 
and let cook in the oven about two 
hours. Half an hour before serving 
add six or eight small potatoes, pared 
and cut in halves or quarters. Serve 
from the casserole. 



37 



Creamed Oysters in Ramequins 

Pour a cup of cold water over a 
quart of oysters, and look over and 
wash the oysters to remove shell or 
sand. Strain the liquor through two 
folds of cheesecloth, set it over the 
fire and heat to the boiling point ; 
skim, then add the oysters and heat 
these as quickly as possible to the 
boiling point ; drain the oysters and 
leave them whole or cut them in 
halves. Melt three tablespoonfuls of 
butter; in this cook three tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, and a dash of pepper, then add a 
cup of the broth and half a cup of 
rich cream, or in place of these one 
cup and a half of rich milk ; stir until 
boiling, then add the oysters and let 
become very hot. Serve in covered 
ramequins, made hot by rinsing them 
in hot water. Serve with these olives 
or pickles, baking-powder biscuit or 
yeast rolls. 

Chicken Bechamel in Ramequins 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter ; 
cook in this two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and a 
dash of pepper, then stir in three- 
fourths a cup, each, of chicken broth 
and milk or cream ; stir until boiling, 
then add a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley, about ten drops of 



38 



onion juice, a pint of cooked chicken, 
chopped fine, and the beaten yolks of 
four eggs ; turn the mixture into 
buttered ramequins and make the top 
of the mixture smooth. Set the ram- 
equins on many folds of paper in an 
agate dish, surround with boiling 
water to half their height and let 
cook in a moderate oven about twenty 
minutes or until the mixture feels 
firm. If uncovered ramequins be 
used, when sending to the table, set 
a sprig of parsley in the top of 
each. Mushrooms or sweetbreads 
may be mixed with the chicken. 
Fish, oysters, lobster, shrimps, sweet- 
breads, and mushrooms may be used 
in place of the chicken. 

Salted Almonds 

Cover a pint of shelled almonds 
with boiling water and let boil about 
two minutes, then drain and cover 
with cold water; take the almonds, 
one by one, between the thumb and 
forefinger, and remove the outer 
brown skin. Beat the white of an 
egg slightly, then pass it through a 
fine strainer. Mix the nuts in the 
white of egg to moisten them slightly, 
then toss them in a tablespoonful or 
more of fine salt and set into the 
oven to dry. The nuts must be 
watched carefully while in the oven, 
lest they burn. Serve in individual 
relish dishes. 

li 



39 



PLATE X 



Anchovy=and=Cheese Hors 
d'Oeuvres 

Cut some fillets of anchovies or 
herring (those preserved in oil are 
the choicest) in tiny diamond-shaped 
pieces ; put the trimmings of the fish 
into very small ramequins. For eight 
ramequins take a choice cream cheese 
and two or three teaspoonfuls of 
meat extract and work to a smooth 
paste ; with a pastry bag and star 
tube press the paste into the rame- 



PLATE X 

4954 Relish Dish, cut-glass lining, 2 compart- 
ments, length, 7 inches. 

4958 Relish Dish, cut-glass lining, 2 compart- 
ments, length, 1% inches. 

4975 Relish Dish, cut-glass lining, 4 compart- 
ments, length, 8 inches. 

4974 Relish Dish, cut-glass lining, 2 compart- 
ments, length, SV2 inches. 

4971 Relish Dish, cut-glass lining, 2 compart- 
ments, length, 6% inches. 

4966 Relish Dish, cut-glass lining, 2 compart- 
ments, length, 654 inches. 
70 Olive Dish , cut-glass lining, length, 7 inches. 



quins over the fish, to cover it com- 
pletely, and have a star of paste in 
the center of each ramequin. Deco- 
rate with the diamond-shaped pieces 
of fish and parsley or cress leaves. 
Serve at the beginning of luncheon 
or dinner in the place of raw oysters. 

Lobster Newburg in Ramequins 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter 
in a frying pan, and stir into it a pint 

I 



41 



of lobster meat, cut in small pieces, 
shaking in a little salt and a dash of 
paprika ; cover the dish and let stand 
for three or four minutes, then add 
one-fourth a cup of sherry or Madeira 
and mix thoroughly. Lastly stir in 
the beaten yolks of three eggs, mixed 
with half a cup of cream; stir and 
cook (without boiling) until the mix- 
ture becomes very hot and slightly 
thickened, then turn into hot rame- 
quins, cover closely and send at once 
to the table. Parboiled oysters or 
clams, cooked chicken, finnan haddie, 
lobster, shrimps, and sweetbreads 
may be prepared by the same recipe. 

Brown Fricassee of Oysters in 
Ramequins 

Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; 
in this cook two slices of onion, a sprig 
or two of parsley, three slices of carrot, 
and one-fourth a green pepper pod, 
cut in strips, until they are browned. 
In the meanwhile, scald one quart of 
oysters and drain them carefully. 
Cook one-third a cup of flour in the 
butter with the vegetables, until it is 
well browned, then add one cup of 
oyster liquor and one-half cup of 
cream and stir constantly until the 
sauce thickens and boils, then strain 
over the drained oysters and let heat 
over boiling water. When ready to 



42 



serve turn into the ramequins, made 
hot in the warming oven or hot water, 
and serve at once. Pass at the same 
time hot biscuit, rolls, or puff-paste 
diamonds. This dish may be served 
in either covered or uncovered rame- 
quins. 

Oysters Coddled in Ramequins 

From slices of bread half an inch 
thick stamp out pieces of bread the 
size of the ramequins ; toast and 
butter them and set one in each rame- 
quin ; above these dispose a layer of 
oysters carefully washed and freed 
from bits of shell ; sprinkle the oysters 
with salt and pepper, and pour over 
them two tablespoonfuls of cream 
sauce (see creamed oysters) made 
with milk or cream. Sprinkle the 
contents of each dish with two table- 
spoonfuls of cracker crumbs, mixed 
with melted butter. Cook in the 
oven (not in a dish of hot water) 
about eight minutes, or until the 
crumbs are well browned. Set the 
ramequins in the silver cases and 
send at once to the table. 

Turbans of Fish in Ramequins 

For eight ramequins have two small 
slices of halibut cut entirely across 
the fish ; remove the skin and bone, 
thus securing eight " fillets' ' of the 
same shape and size. Trim these, if 



43 




PLATE XI 



44 



when rolled they will be too large for 
the ramequins. Dip the fillets in 
melted butter; squeeze over them 
the juice of half a lemon and a little 
onion juice and sprinkle with a little 
salt. Commencing- at the widest end, 
roll each fillet into a " turban 99 and 
push a wooden toothpick, dipped in 
melted butter, through the turban, to 
hold it in shape. Set the prepared 
turbans in an agate pan, pour in a 
little fish stock (made by simmering 
the bones and trimmings of the fish 



PLATE XI 

2470 MacLaren's Cheese. 
4706 Ice Tub (cut-glass lining). 

2471 Mustard (glass lining). 
2466 Tabasco (filled bottle). 
2468 Ketchup (filled bottle). 

1 10 Cordial Set (8 pieces) . 

2472 Horseradish (glass lining). 

2473 Marmalade (filled jar). 
58 Camembert Cheese. 

3781 Sandwich Tray. 

2465 Siphon. 



with a few slices, each, of carrot and 
onion in water to cover) and put a 
teaspoonful of butter on each. Cook 
in a moderate oven about fifteen 
minutes. Baste three or four times 
with the liquid in the pan. When 
the turbans are cooked, drain off the 
liquid and add to it enough cream or 
milk to make a cup and a half in all. 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter ; 
cook in it three tablespoonfuls of flour 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and pepper ; add the liquid and 



45 



stir until boiling. Set the turbans in 
the ramequins, pour sauce over and 
around them, cover and serve at once. 

To Prepare Sardines to Serve 
as a Hors d'Oeuvre or at 
Chafing Dish Suppers 

Drain the sardines and wipe with a 
cloth, to free them from the oil of 
the can. Slice a mild onion, put a 
layer into a dish long enough to take 
the sardines and on this dispose a 
layer of sardines ; alternate the 
layers until all the sardines are used. 
Mix four tablespoonfuls of oil, one of 
vinegar, and a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped chilli pepper and pour over 
the sardines; cover closely and let 
stand in a cool place several hours. 
When ready to serve drain, and 
set into the glass receptacle of a 
silver sardine dish. Serve with 
pulled bread, deviled biscuit, toasted 
crackers, and quarters of lemon. 



46 



In the past twenty-five years 
there has been a remarkable 
growth in the material prosperity 
of the country. In consequence 
of enlarged means women are 
interested, as at no previous time, 
in dainty table service ; and to 
meet the ever-growing demands 
of the homemaker silversmiths 
and artists have vied with each 
other in presenting articles in 
which both beauty and utility are 
combined. Cunningly wrought 
silver and cut glass have long 
been drawn upon when an elegant 
table was to be set forth. But 
cut glass is heavy, and when 
deeply engraved is liable to break 
unless it be handled with great 
care ; nor does it quite fit in 
with our ideas of propriety to 
serve such articles as iced olives 
and pickles, strawberries, pre- 
serves, caviar, and the like, in 
direct contact with silver. Thus 
it has come to pass that the silver 
berry bowl, celery tray, and sil- 



47 



ver dishes for cheese, marmalade, 
preserves, sardines, and bonbons 
are provided with a removable 
glass lining. This lining is of 
finest crystal glass, uncut save for 
the conventional star at the bottom 
of the dish. In similar fashion 
the Italian hors d'oeuvre dishes are 
made with compartments for 
caviar, sardines, anchovies, dev- 
iled biscuit, and the innumerable 
tidbits now thought so indispen- 
sable as a prelude to the formal 
dinner. All of these dishes are 
within the means of the modest 
housekeeper, and are well adapted 
to afford pleasure both to herself 
and those who are wont to gather 
daily around her table. 



48 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





0 014 631 537 9 



0 014 631 537 



I 



